How best to transfer a large design?

May 23, 2010 § 9 Comments

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Front of pattern with Jinny's autograph

Front of pattern with Jinny's autograph

How best to transfer a large design?
I’m planning a quilt – either one large one or five smaller connected ones – called Pathways to the Divine Centre. I have a design I want to transfer onto fabric but it is a very large design. It’s too big (if I do the one large quilt) to tape up on a window and transfer and even for the smaller one it is going to be a challenge.  Any ideas?

The Process Pledge

The possibilities as I see them…

  1. Draw the design onto paper then mark into squares and then immobilise the fabric (perhaps starch it too) and mark it up into squares and copy the design.
  2. Borrow a projector, attach the fabric to the wall and draw over the projected image.
  3. Break the design up into portions, fold the fabric so that only the portion currently being transferred is flat and tape it to the window with HEAVY DUTY DUCT TAPE and transfer the design. Then do the next portion etc. (Sounds very laborious)
  4. Draw the design life-size then place it over the fabric and transfer by poking holes through and making dots, then join the dots later.

Do you have any ideas? Have you transferred a large design onto fabric before?

I’d love to hear your ideas. Please leave me a comment and let me know what you think.

Thanks 🙂

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§ 9 Responses to How best to transfer a large design?

  • Or trace it onto clear plastic and place the plastic on top of the fabric, Slip applique pieces into position under the plastic then carefully remove the plastic and pin, press, or tack into position.

    (I am assuming it is applique ….. I have just realised you don’t actually say! If it is quilting design, this won’t work, and you wouldn’t need to mark a pieced design.)

    Judy B

    • sewjournal says:

      Thanks for the idea Judy. I actually did applique this way once and I didn’t like it very much. I’m wanting to back baste this as it is a large design and that’s why I need to transfer the design to the back of the fabric. Sorry I didn’t make that clear in the post.
      Cheers Munaiba

  • PS

    OH! It is so nice to comment on a WordPress blog …. Blogger has refused to believe who I am this week!

    Judy B

    • sewjournal says:

      I know what you mean! I’ve had the same problem Even the blogger sites that allow openIDs didn’t recognise me and then there are those that only allow google IDs which I don’t use.
      Munaiba

  • I don’t like the plastic much either …… how about placing the paper over the fabric an basting through the paper with a largish machine stitch then removing the paper.

    Judy B again!

  • Janet says:

    Since it’s such a large design and you back baste, it sounds like it would be easier in sections. I would divide the paper pattern up and then do the same to the fabric by putting in basting stitches where they will align with the lines on the paper pattern. Does that make sense?

    • sewjournal says:

      Thanks Janet and Judy. Basting through the paper and doing it in sections and putting basting alignment stitches in is a great idea! I’ll let you know how it goes. Munaiba

  • Doris says:

    Hi Munaiba,
    If you can produce your design on paper or multiple sheets of paper, you can use the old tried & true method & use dressmaker’s carbon (sometimes called tracing) paper. I would try this only if you can obtain the non-chalk paper. Slip the carbon between the paper & fabric & go over the lines with a pencil or ball point pen.

    To align your pattern, create registration marks on the paper pattern, you can transfer these the same way.

    I also really like your perforated paper pattern. You might be able to perforate the paper on your sewing machine with a large needle & no thread. I’m thinking the machine made holes will be close enough that you won’t need to connect them.

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